I have found a model of what I’d like to make, but am having problems interpreting it. There’s this chalk drawing of a young Margeurite de Valois in 1559:

Margeurite de Valois sketch

and then there’s a painting based on that sketch, completed about a year later:

Margeurite de Valois painting

Somewhere between the sketch and the painting her dress has changed colour, so who knows what colour it was originally. My daughter likes the colours of the first, so I’ll use that as a starting point; I’m not sure the rust colour would suit her as well as the blue. Having them both is useful though, as they show different things. The painting shows the detail of the epaulettes beautifully, while the chalk shows the little ruffled cuffs peeking out from the end of her sleeves.

Some quizes though:

1. I’m not sure what would have given the striped effect on the sleeves. In the second it looks like beading, or possibly gilt embroidery. In the first, however, it looks more like it’s part of the fabric – a raised velvet perhaps? – or cording? or piping? I just don’t know enough to tell.

2. What would forepart of her skirt would have been like? Presumably to match her rust-coloured sleeves, but how would the stripes translate to the forepart? Neither picture shows anything below the waist, so I’m stuck.

Time to consult the experts I think.