Home » Magellan Region Dress » Two steps forward, one step back..

Two steps forward, one step back..

The smock is mostly assembled, however…

1.  I have discovered (I wasn’t sure at the time, so I followed the illustration) that I should have sewn the side gores in on the bias rather than straight.  Having sewed them in straight means the hem dips at the sides.  I will have to trim and hem straight instead, but also…

2.  On closer examination of the inspiration piece (and more knowledge of practices of the time), I can see that what I took to be little tulle pouffy decorations on the epaulettes are in fact bits of the smock pulled through between the sleeve attachments.  That would be fine, but the smock was made to be quite fitting, so I doubt there’ll be enough fabric underneath to pull through in a pouffy fashion.  I think pouffy bits would require some pleats or gathering in the sleeve, and I’d probably want to be more sure of the smock fit too in relation to the model’s shoulder line, otherwise the sleeves won’t sit at the right height to be pulled through in the right way.

3.  In the oil version of the inspiration piece, it seems pretty clear to me from the way the folds sit that the smock fabric is silk.  Replicating the chalk would probably be possible in cotton/linen, but yes, clearly it wants to be silk.  The smock edge at the neckline is also finished in lace rather than blackwork. 

So I’ve clearly reached a point where I have to make a decision about how strictly I want to stick to that inspiration piece, vs e.g. making a dress according to the pattern I have, with Margeurite to Valois only providing inspiration for trim.  Decisions, decisions!

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